Habana
October 1, 2008
2080 Van Ness Avenue,
San Francisco, CA 94109
415.441.2822
www.habana1948.com
At Habana, enjoying the “Sabor de Cuba”; the flavor and romance of the Caribbean’s largest island, is like spending a brief lay-over in the rough brilliance of old 1940s Havana. There’s an air of faded glory about the splendid bar/restaurante. The warm rustic décor is peppered with glorious Spanish colonial architecture, much of which looks as if it is under restoration, aside from the vivid murals of gorgeous people, and beautiful animals. As if deliberately positioned under the sweltering Caribbean sun, lush plants add virtual shade to the sizzling dining rooms.
The exuberant friendliness of Habana’s personnel is what shines through however, from the wait staff to the bartenders running the swinging bar, of which is rumored to served over a thousand Mojitos a week. All the while adding to the encounter are the instantly recognizable sounds of Cuban music; Spanish guitars fused with intense rumba rhythms, zesty horns, drums, bongos, maracas and sultry voices.
Although the ambience and cordiality are superb, even better are executive chef Joseph Kohn’s dishes. Combining traditional Cuban flavors and Caribbean influences with modern techniques, Kohn’s cuisine is inventive, radiant and utterly delicious. The freshly made empanadas, Puerco; Bar-b-Que pork, Vegetal; roasted squash with goat cheese, and the decadent Pato; shredded duck with papaya-citrus mojo, are spectacular starters.
Other fabulous “Primeros” include the Picadillo; spicy chopped chicken with chayote and the Tierra-Mar; a fiery Cuban calamari; bay scallops, green beans and onions served with a vibrant chipotle remoulade.
The extraordinary main courses, or “Segundos” are seemingly under-priced at below twenty dollars an entree. The exceedingly fresh fish dishes; Salmon Al Mango Y Mostaza; salmon with spiced green beans, Halibut Fabada; pan-seared halibut with white beans and the Tuna Patacon; grilled tuna with maduros, black bean sauce and banana-lime salsa are astounding. However, the Enchilado De Camarones is the king of their seafood dishes; tiger prawns in a Cuban Creole sauce with saffron rice and mussles.
The Pencuga Agria or pan-roasted chicken breast with “angry orange” sauce is delicious as well as the Medallones De Cerdo; pork medallions with a smoked tomato coulis. The popular marinated skirt steak, or Ropa Nueva, is wonderful as well.
The desserts, created by Edgar Valenzuela, Coconut Flan, Roasted Pineapple Crisp, Meyer Lemon or Banana Tart and the decadent Fresca y Chocolate, should almost be enjoyed at the top of the meal, since it would be a crying shame if they were overlooked.
Fresca
October 1, 2008
Neighborhood: Pacific Heights2114 Fillmore Street
(between California St & Sacramento St)
San Francisco, CA 94115
(415) 447-2668
www.frescasf.com
Since there has been a major influx of Neuvo-latin restaurants sprouting up in the city as of late, to keep up with this new impulse, Fresca has not only one, but two locales. The original restaurant being on West Portal, gave rise to the relatively new Pacific Heights spot on Fillmore. This location’s open kitchen gives light to a wonderful sense of camaraderie and passion. It’s great to see a young, friendly, cohesive staff working together to create an atmosphere of charm and open hospitality.
As Peru has a rich multicultural heritage its traditional cuisine is just as multi-layered. Dishes incorporating fish rule the fare. Traditional ceviches are bountiful. Fresca’s Ceviche Mixto, with calamari, scallops, shrimp, clams and rocoto spice is fiery and bold, a perfect contrast to the cool Ceviche de Ahicon Coco, Ahi tuna with ginger and jalapenos bathed in sweet coconut water.
Tiraditos, or Peruvian sashimi is another outstanding treat found on the menu. The spicy Tuna Tiradito, fresh tuna in a lively scallion vinaigrette is delicious. Unsurprisingly, given Peru’s rich mix of cultures there are other Eastern-inflected dishes including the delicious Arroz Chaufa or fried rice and the delectable Tequenos, or crab and cream cheese stuffed wontons served with a spicy aji amarillo dipping sauce.
The desserts are spectacular. The ripe Mango Cheese Cake is rich and creamy and set off by this wonderful mango sauce. Arros con Leche, warm rice pudding with coconut cream and canella, sprinkled with warm toasted coconut shavings is fabulous.
A great assortment of Latin beers and wine fill the menu, all compliment the remarkable side dishes extraordinarily. Take a seat at the bar overlooking that engaging fast-paced kitchen, grab a dark beer, order up some Bolitas de Yuca Frita, mouth-watering fried yucca rolls filled with queso fresco drizzled with a wonderful aji huacatay mayo sauce and watch this magnificent father and son pair do what they do best…entertain.
Cortez
September 25, 2008
Neighborhoods: Nob Hill, Civic Center/Tenderloin
550 Geary St(between Jones St & Shannon St)
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 292-6360
www.cortezrestaurant.com
The Husband and wife duo of Quinn and Karen Hatfield preside over the kitchen. Their Mediterranean “small plates”, to be shared at the table, are not only aesthetically gorgeous, and full of revolutionary flavors, they unify the dining revelry.
Cortez’s libations will kick a dining expedition off with gusto. The Glow Cocktail, Op vodka, Cointreau, lemon juice, and mandarin liquor, actually gets bolder with each sip. The devilish Diablo, Silver tequilia, crème de casis, fresh lime and ginger ale, is a wicked little spirit.
The plan to conquering Cortez’s vast menu is to divide up the booty among your army and plunder at least three dishes per person. Tackle something light first, like the Frisee salad with smoked trout, apple, avocado, and fingerling potatoes. Then attack something heartier like the decadent Butternut squash ravioli with Banyuls wine vinegar and sage emulsion. The Caramelized scallops, crispy shallots and artichokes with vanilla-saffron sauce is scrumptious. Charge on to the Roasted loin of beef with creamy braised swiss chard and bone marrow splinters in a red
wine shallot reduction. The Slow baked Atlantic salmon, with Dijon infused sweet potato and citrus balsamic vinaigrette is a treasure-trove of textures and deeply intense flavors.
Marauding deeper into the menu will reveal a rich wealth of desserts as treasured as diamonds, each paired with it’s own rabble-rousing libation. “Cortez” a lemon meringue tart with fresh citrus mélange and ginger ice cream and it’s incendiary shot of Canavella Limoncella is scorching. While the Chocolate peanut butter truffle cake, with caramel ice cream and peanut praline matched with a shot of Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum is a victorious ending to an adventuresome meal.
Alma
September 25, 2008
1101 Valencia St.
San Francisco, CA 94110
415-401-8959
Far too classy to be considered trendy, Alma, Spanish for soul, found en el corazon de la Mission is Neuvo-Latino cuisine; mingling esthetics, ingredients and techniques from Puerto Rico, Cuba, Mexico and the southernmost tip of Argentina, at its finest. Owned by the young and talented chef Johnny Alamilla, “The Bay Area’s indisputable ambassador of Nuevo Latino,” a title bestowed upon him by the James Beard Foundation, and co-owner Catherine Olsen, Alma melds the traditions of the conventional with a fashionable almost cavalier sensibility.
The ambiance speaks volumes of chef Alamilla’s style and personal touch, as this avid snowboarder and self-proclaimed “maintenance guy” for the restaurant was instrumental in designing the interior. The restaurant has a feeling of stepping into a warmhearted Latin dining room. Unbelievably, the food actually outshines the handsome décor and modest bar.
There are no less than four ceviches, the most refreshing way to start a meal, on the menu. Try them individually or grab the Un Poco de Todo, a little taste of each; striped bass with green chilies and red onion in a champagne-grapefruit marinate, scallops with Fresno chilies, cucumber and celery-lime agua fresca, tuna with jicama, green mango and Serrano chilies and the spicy prawns with carrot, ginger rocoto chilies and tomato water are all exceptional.
Appetizers like the Sugar Pie Pumpkin Soup with an orange-ancho chile reduction and the Butternut Squash Empanadas are marvelous ways to begin a meal. The chef’s special side dishes are wonderful accompaniments to the entrees. The Corn Arepas, with caramelized red onions and goat cheese, are magical. And the Quinoa and Purple Potato Gratin with poblano cream and queso casero is excellent parked next to one of Alma’s dazzling entrees.
The pan-seared Blue Nose Sea Bass over giant Peruvian beans, roasted chilies, pearl onions and Meyer lemon sauce simply can’t be beat. The Churrasco-style Pork Chop with a garlic-scallion potato mash is hearty and wholesome. And the Grilled Hanger Steak, with Yucatan-style roasted tomato salsa and smoked bacon sauce is a truly stunning taste. “They’re all good,” admits Alamilla about his entrees, “they’re like my children, how can I suggest one over the other.” Another remarkable entrée is the chef’s selection of season fresh vegetables, a perfect match for the vegetarian.
Regional Latin wines can be matched to soulfully accompany any dish. And lush post-dinner aperitifs seamlessly complement Alma’s versions of the most decadent of Latin desserts, if you dare.
Sumi
September 25, 2008
Neighborhood: The Castro
4243 18th Street
San Francisco, CA 94114
(415) 626-7864
www.suminthecastro.com
Sumi, named after it’s owner, has been in the Castro longer than you have. Well, that is if you haven’t lived there for longer than 22 years. In restaurant years, which are much longer than dog years, that’s an eternity! And, it looks like this place isn’t going anywhere soon.With it’s soft lighting and romantic setting, Sumi is charming and quaint, has a loveable wait staff and unforgettable Asian-inspired food. The perfect place to not only take your sweetie, but mom and dad too.
The Asian influence is no more apparent than in the appetizers. The Panko Coated Warm Goat Cheese with oranges, Belgian endive, toasted hazelnuts, dried cherries and a subtle sherry vinaigrette is a perfect appetizer paired with a nice Chardonnay. The deep fried togarashi squid, on the menu it’s called Calamari and Rock Shrimp, with it’s trio of dipping sauces is fantastic, light, and crunchy, a perfect beginning paired with an exotic Japanese beer, or sake, or a wine from the extensive wine list.
The main courses are cooked to perfection, centered around a protein, and prepared in a French style with fresh California ingredients and an Asian flair. The Oven-Roasted Miso Chicken Breast is full of flavor and simply delicious. It’s served with wasabi mashed potatoes that are light and creamy with a faint but distinctive horseradish note. The fresh fish of the day was Yellowtail or Hamachi as you would see it on a sushi menu. It’s served along side a spongy wild rice and sautéed spinach with golden raisins and a delicious saffron beurre blanc. There is also a wonderful Oven Roasted Salmon, Seared Sea Scallops, Pork Loin Chop, Lamb, and of course a fantastic Niman Ranch Grilled File Mignon served with garlic mashed potatoes, carrots, gobo, herbs de Provence butter and fried shallots, on the menu as well. You can add a side order of Sautéed Garlic Broccoli, Cayenne-Sweet Potato Fries, Stir-fried Asian Greens or Garlic Mashed Potatoes for just five bucks.
Make sure to leave room for dessert. The Sumi Sundae is a perfect meal-topper; decadent Scharfeen Berger chocolate cake, served with French vanilla ice cream, home-made chocolate sauce, and brandied cherries. Another wonderful ending is the Yuzu Cheese Cake with a pink grapefruit garnish.
Sumi is a staple in the heart of the Castro. It’s quiet and cute with an endearing staff, a romantic atmosphere, and outstanding food, a perfect little place to impress just about anyone.
Frjtz
September 25, 2008
Neighborhood: Hayes Valley
581 Hayes St
(between Laguna St & Octavia St)
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 864-7654
www.frjtzfries.com
If all Frjtz served was Belgian style fries, it would still be the best place in the Hayes Valley (maybe even SF), to grab a quick bite, take in some stylish art, enjoy cool music, and relax. Stepping into the Hayes Valley Frjtz (there is also a Ghirardelli Square location) is like stepping into a café in Amsterdam. The atmosphere is voguish and bohemian with a European flair. By way of inspired art, tiled skateboard decks and dazzling paintings decorate the walls, and snug seating–this charming teahouse is the perfect place to steal a moment to appreciate life.
Featuring DJ Frjtz spinning eclectic music every Friday night and during the week a rotating host of DJs, including DJ Pathos and others, Frjtz is also a hot night spot. Also, enjoy lazy Sunday afternoons with down tempo music from 2 pm until DJs run out of records.
Don’t go to Frjtz and not order the fries! Make no mistake; they are the best fries around. Crisp on the outside and pillow-soft inside, they are simply perfect. Add a drizzle of truffle oil and be careful not to bite off a finger during an eating frenzy, they’re THAT good. After enjoying a few nude fries, try them with a dip. Interesting condiments, from curry catsup to pesto mayo to strawberry mustard can change the flavor of them dramatically.
Frjtz also serves well-crafted crepes, both savory and sweet. Some of the best crepes, named after famous artists, are the Caravaggio made with mozzarella, grilled chicken, pesto, and tomatoes, and the Matisse with smoked salmon, sour cream, and chives. Dessert crepes are a must-have, like the Margritte; Nutella and banana, topped with whipped cream or the Horta, filled with butter, brown sugar, bananas, and topped with sour cream. Basquiat was not only
the name of one of the world’s most brilliant artists, but also the name of one of the many sandwiches available. With grilled chicken, pesto mayo, red onions, melted Swiss and avocado on focaccia, it’s delicious.
Frjtz features an assortment of wonderful Belgium beers, the finest being the Hooegarden, its floral with a vague hint of vanilla, and a bevy of espresso drinks.
Visiting Frjtz could easily become a daily or nightly routine.
Ararat
September 19, 2008
Ararat Mediterranean
Neighborhood: The Castro
4072 18th St
San Francisco, CA 94114
(415) 252-9325
www.ararat-tapas.com
In Eastern Turkey bordering Iran, Armenia, and Nachivan, sits Mount Ararat, which may be the largest single-mass mountain in the world and is suspected, based on clues in the book of Genesis, to be where Noah’s ark was last parked. Taking its name from this massive stratovolcano, Ararat Mediterranean Tapas & Bar sits high above 18th street overlooking the beautiful Castro district.
Ararat, the restaurant, offers a mélange of tapas, entrees, and an assortment of perfectly cooked kabobs inspired from locales in and around the Mediterranean. Combining the flavors and cooking techniques of countries like Turkey, Lebanon, Greece, Italy, and Spain, the chefs at Ararat create a uniquely appetizing palette of colors and flavors.
Ararat prides itself on Mezes, or hot and cold tapas. They have the standard Lebanese Tabbouleh, but it doesn’t taste standard. This delicious parsley salad is bustling with flavors of ripe tomato, onion, and fresh mint. The Turkish Cigar Borek, a feta cheese and herb filled-filo pastry is spectacular as is the Piquillos, a diminutive Spanish red pepper filled with cumin-lime blended goat cheese. The best way to enjoy these dishes is by way of the Ararat Sampler which combines all these as well as 5 other delightful tapas on one plate. It’s priced much less than a Mediterranean cruise, but just as adventurous.
Much like the tapas, the entrees are a whirlwind of taste and technique. The Beyti Kebab, lavash rolls filled with ground sirloin and served with garlic yogurt and a light tomato sauce is terrific. The Salmon Provancale, roasted salmon topped with fennel, leeks, and spinach served over sautéed cannelloni beans and a fumet sauce is exceptional. There are a few wonderful Italian dishes on the menu too. The Chicken Parmagiano, and the Linguini Dimare, with ocean-fresh clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops, and salmon in a delicate garlic and white wine butter sauce, are almost as good as the Tortellini Carbonara, homemade beef tortellini with pancetta, green onions, and mushrooms in a light cream sauce topped with parmesan cheese. The menu is rounded out by a wonderful lentil soup, several salads, creative cocktails from the full bar, and an outstanding wine list.
But, if nothing else, don’t miss the best baklava in the city. A bold statement, surely, but couple the Nightingale’s Nest, lavender honey baked baklavas with roasted walnuts, with a Turkish coffee and you’ll understand.
Ararat, likes its namesake, is bold, beautiful, and bordering the mystical with a superb blend of cultures and flavors from the area in the middle of the Earth.
Tallula
June 7, 2008

Tallula
4230 18th Street
San Francisco CA, 9114
(On why she called everyone ‘darling’) “Because all my life I’ve been terrible at remembering people’s names. Once I introduced a friend of mine as ‘Martini’. Her name was actually Olive”
- Tallulah Bankhead
Tallula, borrowing it’s namesake from brassy film star Tallulah Bankhead (1903 – 1968), who apparently had over 500 lovers of both sexes, is the kind of quaint little place that you wish you would have found on your own. And if you were lucky enough to of stumbled upon it, you certainly wouldn’t waste any time enlightening a few friends. Located snugly in the Castro, from the outside, the petite restaurant is almost imperceptible, but upon entering, the delicate space opens to reveal a lavish Mediterranean expanse. The space is perfected; having a lofty, uplifting feel, an atmosphere of serenity pervades, the feeling of old-world charm is intoxicating and the rustic décor soon becomes heartwarmingly familiar.
Feel just a bit of sympathy for the energetic wait staff, though, as they calmly traverse the narrowest spiraling staircase with the greatest of confidence. Together the staff works diligently as one cohesive unit: informative, accommodating, bright-eyed and always cheerful.
The sake-based cocktails, aside from the flirty strawberry concoction known as “Scarlet”; being a dainty sparkling wine number, are all brilliantly conceived, fantastic tasting and cleverly disguised as brisk movie scenes on the drink menu. Here, you don’t order a drink because of its contents; you order it based on the amount of drama you require for the evening. Try the licorice and lemon-spiced “Napier” or take a spin in their chilled “Bentley” martini. Be aware of the well-conceived wine list; try the full-bodied, woodsy Grandmertz Rioja from Spain, with a meal, and don’t forget a pot of gourmet tea.
The lush menu is definably Indian, flirting with Thai and very reminiscent of tapas. The menu is divided into Puri, Chaat, Tandoori and Chullas, with each category becoming increasingly complex. Like Garanimals kid’s clothes, order several plates for that mix and match flair. The panko Crumb Encrusted Eggplant and roasted Portobello Mushroom with tomato chutney is alive with flavor. The Spiced Pomme Frites (think crispy, light, perfectly seasoned fries) are a wonderful addition. Aloo Tikki, lemon and cilantro pancakes served with tamarind date chutney, is simply amazing Indian soul food; great texture, deep spicy flavors with bursts of crisp red onion and deep hints of cardamom and cumin. But, what is most exquisite is the “buddha’s fire”, spicy yogurt-based dipping sauce, which is intended as a compliment to the salty fried chickpeas and fennel-flecked chips served as a snack. This unique sauce ads warmth, depth and power to all it touches. Don’t forget to order some naan, what’s better than crispy fried bread to soak up all those wonderful sauces?
Be warned satiated diners, the desserts are hazardous. So good in fact, that they must…must be completely finished. Every last deep, dark, intense, chocolate crumb of the Chocolate Espresso Terrine, served with raspberry compote and chantilly cream, has to be enjoyed. Wasting a drop of caramel-drenched, almond-packed coconut ice cream is a mortal sin. You’d be a fool not to finish the cardamom-spiced rice pudding or even think of not finishing guava, concord grape or white peach-black pepper sorbet.
Prices are conservative considering the amount of thought poured into each dish. Tallula’s dishes are opulent but subtle with an outward notion of simplicity, further inspection reveals, however, layers of depth. Flavors are extremely well balanced, not a one is overly spicy or pungent or underwhelmingly bland.
Here’s a link to first ever published food article (make sure to hit the Gloss link on that page); http://www.tallulasf.com/archivesite/accolades.html






