Habana

2080 Van Ness Avenue,
San Francisco, CA 94109
415.441.2822
www.habana1948.com

At Habana, enjoying the “Sabor de Cuba”; the flavor and romance of the Caribbean’s largest island, is like spending a brief lay-over in the rough brilliance of old 1940s Havana. There’s an air of faded glory about the splendid bar/restaurante. The warm rustic décor is peppered with glorious Spanish colonial architecture, much of which looks as if it is under restoration, aside from the vivid murals of gorgeous people, and beautiful animals. As if deliberately positioned under the sweltering Caribbean sun, lush plants add virtual shade to the sizzling dining rooms.

The exuberant friendliness of Habana’s personnel is what shines through however, from the wait staff to the bartenders running the swinging bar, of which is rumored to served over a thousand Mojitos a week. All the while adding to the encounter are the instantly recognizable sounds of Cuban music; Spanish guitars fused with intense rumba rhythms, zesty horns, drums, bongos, maracas and sultry voices.

Although the ambience and cordiality are superb, even better are executive chef Joseph Kohn’s dishes. Combining traditional Cuban flavors and Caribbean influences with modern techniques, Kohn’s cuisine is inventive, radiant and utterly delicious. The freshly made empanadas, Puerco; Bar-b-Que pork, Vegetal; roasted squash with goat cheese, and the decadent Pato; shredded duck with papaya-citrus mojo, are spectacular starters.

Other fabulous “Primeros” include the Picadillo; spicy chopped chicken with chayote and the Tierra-Mar; a fiery Cuban calamari; bay scallops, green beans and onions served with a vibrant chipotle remoulade.

The extraordinary main courses, or “Segundos” are seemingly under-priced at below twenty dollars an entree. The exceedingly fresh fish dishes; Salmon Al Mango Y Mostaza; salmon with spiced green beans, Halibut Fabada; pan-seared halibut with white beans and the Tuna Patacon; grilled tuna with maduros, black bean sauce and banana-lime salsa are astounding. However, the Enchilado De Camarones is the king of their seafood dishes; tiger prawns in a Cuban Creole sauce with saffron rice and mussles.

The Pencuga Agria or pan-roasted chicken breast with “angry orange” sauce is delicious as well as the Medallones De Cerdo; pork medallions with a smoked tomato coulis. The popular marinated skirt steak, or Ropa Nueva, is wonderful as well.

The desserts, created by Edgar Valenzuela, Coconut Flan, Roasted Pineapple Crisp, Meyer Lemon or Banana Tart and the decadent Fresca y Chocolate, should almost be enjoyed at the top of the meal, since it would be a crying shame if they were overlooked.

Fresca

Neighborhood: Pacific Heights
2114 Fillmore Street
(between California St & Sacramento St)
San Francisco, CA 94115
(415) 447-2668
www.frescasf.com

Owned and operated by the father and Son team of Julio and Jose Calvo-Perez, Fresca is “More than just Peruvian,” claims their motto. Like Peru, the restaurant is a rich multicultural crossroads where eastern and western techniques and flavors converge. Fresca glows with an overwhelming sense of pride as the Perez duo’s craft and culture is methodically represented in great detail. Not only do the dishes seem to come straight from Peru, the décor creates a wonderful representation of all that is unique to Latin America.

Since there has been a major influx of Neuvo-latin restaurants sprouting up in the city as of late, to keep up with this new impulse, Fresca has not only one, but two locales. The original restaurant being on West Portal, gave rise to the relatively new Pacific Heights spot on Fillmore. This location’s open kitchen gives light to a wonderful sense of camaraderie and passion. It’s great to see a young, friendly, cohesive staff working together to create an atmosphere of charm and open hospitality.

As Peru has a rich multicultural heritage its traditional cuisine is just as multi-layered. Dishes incorporating fish rule the fare. Traditional ceviches are bountiful. Fresca’s Ceviche Mixto, with calamari, scallops, shrimp, clams and rocoto spice is fiery and bold, a perfect contrast to the cool Ceviche de Ahicon Coco, Ahi tuna with ginger and jalapenos bathed in sweet coconut water.

Tiraditos, or Peruvian sashimi is another outstanding treat found on the menu. The spicy Tuna Tiradito, fresh tuna in a lively scallion vinaigrette is delicious. Unsurprisingly, given Peru’s rich mix of cultures there are other Eastern-inflected dishes including the delicious Arroz Chaufa or fried rice and the delectable Tequenos, or crab and cream cheese stuffed wontons served with a spicy aji amarillo dipping sauce.

The desserts are spectacular. The ripe Mango Cheese Cake is rich and creamy and set off by this wonderful mango sauce. Arros con Leche, warm rice pudding with coconut cream and canella, sprinkled with warm toasted coconut shavings is fabulous.

A great assortment of Latin beers and wine fill the menu, all compliment the remarkable side dishes extraordinarily. Take a seat at the bar overlooking that engaging fast-paced kitchen, grab a dark beer, order up some Bolitas de Yuca Frita, mouth-watering fried yucca rolls filled with queso fresco drizzled with a wonderful aji huacatay mayo sauce and watch this magnificent father and son pair do what they do best…entertain.

Cote Sud

Neighborhood: Castro
4238 18th St
(between Collingwood St & Diamond St)
San Francisco, CA 94114
(415) 255-6565

www.cotesudsf.com

Is fois gras really one of the culinary world’s greatest treasures? I can understand burying the stuff…but eating it? On purpose, even? So French cuisine is always mentioned in foodie circles as the ultimate and maybe Cote Sud is a perfect representation of the ultimate south of France faire. Or maybe I just don’t dig French food.

So the chef knew I was coming to write about the place in Gloss and upon my arrival had champagne at the ready. Wonderful…how can this turn bad, I thought to myself. The maitere’d asked in the thickest of French accents if we had any allergies or preferences…nah, I said…just surprise us. and surprise us they did.

Course one was, of course, snails. No matter how much I tried to convince myself that I was eating a really garlicky mushroom, I couldn’t choke down the heavenly-scented mollusk. I could still make-out it’s li’l shriveled antennae and all. if I was closer to the balcony I woulda spit it out on the sidewalk. Course two was scallops in a wonderfully light and buttery broth, with just a hint of sand. That’s right…sand. Bummer. Course three was the fois gras. What looked like a slab jelly-covered dog food is supposed to be fab fare? I took a bite of my cracker, smeared the fois gras on it, mashed up a li’l of the slab of fois gras moved it around the plate and feeling all 8-year-old again, patiently waited for the waiter’s reprimand. “What…uh, you, uh…no, uh…like-a-da fois gras,” he asked. I’m sure It’s wonderful fois gras, but I just don’t care for it, sowwy.

Did I mention how wonderful the French wines were? Oh and the bread. The fresh-baked bread was divine. It was too bad that we had to hollow it out and fill it with the veal sausages that were served next. Ugh, I just can’t bring myself to eat veal. I know, I know, wasting food is terrible and this all could have been avoided had I told the waiter that I didn’t really care for meat dishes…but hindsight is always 20/20.

Finally dessert came. I sighed with relief as I enjoyed the light sorbet which faintly tasted like a slightly melted lemon aide slushy toped with a sprig of mint. Wow, that wasn’t too bad, I made it through with only a few dirty looks from the waiter and a few from the other diners around us who were really annoyed by our preferential treatment. As I was in line for the bathroom…the chef said… “Just-a wait…you’z are going to love the main-a-course!” GULP…please don’t let it be frog legs…please don’t let it be frog legs..please don’t let…no, it wasn’t…it was LAMB! An excited dinner next to me leaned over and asked, “Is that the lamb…it looks delicious.” I wanted to just hand the dish over. I mean, why should lamb go to waste, ya know. Instead that lamb burned my outer thigh as it sat wrapped in a napkin, stuffed into my pocket, as I waited in the bathroom line again…to flush it down the toilet.

Aside from sandy scallops, I’m sure Cote Sud is wonderful, if you like meat dishes covered in butter and cream. But then again, you’d think French desserts are divine, right? Uh…no. The vanilla custard, although it contained no meat, was just so-so. Bummer…hey, did I mention the wine?

The Grill at the Metro

Neighborhood: The Castro
3600 16th Street @ Market and Noe
San Francisco, CA 94114
415.703.9751
metrocitybar.com

With the new, brilliantly-inspired executive chef Fletcher Starkey at the helm, the Grill at the Metro, the newest incarnation of the restaurant in the Castro’s most loved hangout, can proudly boast that they serve some of the best down home cooking’ around. Starkey’s eclectic menu works perfectly well next to a dirty martini as it does a cold beer.

Starters like soup or a salad are a good beginning, so give the delicious Seafood Chowder a try, fresh fish and clams with potatoes, celery, white wine, and cream topped with bacon. Or try the delicious Asian Chicken Noodle Salad. Even better are the appetizers like the spicy Buffalo Style Hot Wings served with a Stilton blue cheese dipping sauce or the delectable Chili Rellano, crisp fried poblano chilies stuffed with Vermont white cheddar and served with a salsa verde. But why settle for just an appetizer when you can pair it with a wonderful sandwich like the California Prawn Club with grilled prawns, Applewood bacon, and sliced avocado on an onion poppy seed roll or a juicy Burger or even a perfectly grilled Chicken Sandwich?

If you’re in the mood for something a bit more substantial or need to find a nice date locale that’s as close as you can get to a bar, the Grill can’t be beat since it’s menu includes several spectacular entrees. The carnivore in you will love the Steak Frites, a perfectly grilled 12oz. New York steak served with Kennebeque potato fries, a salad, and a wonderful red wine demi glace. Oh, and you can catch the best fish and chips in the Castro here too. But, it’s the Capellini Pasta Plate with ripe tomatoes, garlic, basil, and white wine that comes in as one of the best dishes on the menu.

Where Starkey really shines, however, is when he takes control of the menu and adds his weekly specials. This week Starkey treated customers to Grilled Wild Steelhead Salmon and Southern Fried Chicken served with mashed potatoes, roasted carrots, a biscuit and gravy. Now, you can tell a LOT about a cook by their fried chicken, right? Well Starkey serves up such perfectly-fried foul that it would definitely make the colonel weep.

There is an assortment of decadent desserts to round out the menu that will add a perfect little ending to a fabulous meal. This new restaurant is exactly what the Metro needed, a no-fuss familiar menu that will simply blow you away.

Cortez

Neighborhoods: Nob Hill, Civic Center/Tenderloin

550 Geary St
(between Jones St & Shannon St)
San Francisco, CA 94102

(415) 292-6360
www.cortezrestaurant.com

Determined to conquer the new world, Hernando Cortez, an adventurous cavalier, landed in Mexico in 1519, where his ships, horses, and artillery filled its natives with such wonder and terror that they considered him a divine being. Is it any wonder that such an adventurous restaurateur as Pascal Rigo, the force behind his own expanding empire (Bay Bread, Boulange de Polk, Le Petit Robert and Chez Nous) would settle for no less a strong namesake as Cortez for his pioneering new Mediterranean restaurant? In Union Square, Cortez, not only a beautiful and romantic restaurant, but swanky bar as well, nestled in the rich confines of the beautiful Hotel Adagio, is a relatively undiscovered new territory open only a mere six months.

The Husband and wife duo of Quinn and Karen Hatfield preside over the kitchen. Their Mediterranean “small plates”, to be shared at the table, are not only aesthetically gorgeous, and full of revolutionary flavors, they unify the dining revelry.

Cortez’s libations will kick a dining expedition off with gusto. The Glow Cocktail, Op vodka, Cointreau, lemon juice, and mandarin liquor, actually gets bolder with each sip. The devilish Diablo, Silver tequilia, crème de casis, fresh lime and ginger ale, is a wicked little spirit.

The plan to conquering Cortez’s vast menu is to divide up the booty among your army and plunder at least three dishes per person. Tackle something light first, like the Frisee salad with smoked trout, apple, avocado, and fingerling potatoes. Then attack something heartier like the decadent Butternut squash ravioli with Banyuls wine vinegar and sage emulsion. The Caramelized scallops, crispy shallots and artichokes with vanilla-saffron sauce is scrumptious. Charge on to the Roasted loin of beef with creamy braised swiss chard and bone marrow splinters in a red wine shallot reduction. The Slow baked Atlantic salmon, with Dijon infused sweet potato and citrus balsamic vinaigrette is a treasure-trove of textures and deeply intense flavors.

Marauding deeper into the menu will reveal a rich wealth of desserts as treasured as diamonds, each paired with it’s own rabble-rousing libation. “Cortez” a lemon meringue tart with fresh citrus mélange and ginger ice cream and it’s incendiary shot of Canavella Limoncella is scorching. While the Chocolate peanut butter truffle cake, with caramel ice cream and peanut praline matched with a shot of Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum is a victorious ending to an adventuresome meal.

Alma

1101 Valencia St.
San Francisco, CA 94110
415-401-8959

Far too classy to be considered trendy, Alma, Spanish for soul, found en el corazon de la Mission is Neuvo-Latino cuisine; mingling esthetics, ingredients and techniques from Puerto Rico, Cuba, Mexico and the southernmost tip of Argentina, at its finest. Owned by the young and talented chef Johnny Alamilla, “The Bay Area’s indisputable ambassador of Nuevo Latino,” a title bestowed upon him by the James Beard Foundation, and co-owner Catherine Olsen, Alma melds the traditions of the conventional with a fashionable almost cavalier sensibility.

The ambiance speaks volumes of chef Alamilla’s style and personal touch, as this avid snowboarder and self-proclaimed “maintenance guy” for the restaurant was instrumental in designing the interior. The restaurant has a feeling of stepping into a warmhearted Latin dining room. Unbelievably, the food actually outshines the handsome décor and modest bar.

There are no less than four ceviches, the most refreshing way to start a meal, on the menu. Try them individually or grab the Un Poco de Todo, a little taste of each; striped bass with green chilies and red onion in a champagne-grapefruit marinate, scallops with Fresno chilies, cucumber and celery-lime agua fresca, tuna with jicama, green mango and Serrano chilies and the spicy prawns with carrot, ginger rocoto chilies and tomato water are all exceptional.

Appetizers like the Sugar Pie Pumpkin Soup with an orange-ancho chile reduction and the Butternut Squash Empanadas are marvelous ways to begin a meal. The chef’s special side dishes are wonderful accompaniments to the entrees. The Corn Arepas, with caramelized red onions and goat cheese, are magical. And the Quinoa and Purple Potato Gratin with poblano cream and queso casero is excellent parked next to one of Alma’s dazzling entrees.

The pan-seared Blue Nose Sea Bass over giant Peruvian beans, roasted chilies, pearl onions and Meyer lemon sauce simply can’t be beat. The Churrasco-style Pork Chop with a garlic-scallion potato mash is hearty and wholesome. And the Grilled Hanger Steak, with Yucatan-style roasted tomato salsa and smoked bacon sauce is a truly stunning taste. “They’re all good,” admits Alamilla about his entrees, “they’re like my children, how can I suggest one over the other.” Another remarkable entrée is the chef’s selection of season fresh vegetables, a perfect match for the vegetarian.

Regional Latin wines can be matched to soulfully accompany any dish. And lush post-dinner aperitifs seamlessly complement Alma’s versions of the most decadent of Latin desserts, if you dare.

Sumi

Neighborhood: The Castro
4243 18th Street
San Francisco, CA 94114
(415) 626-7864
www.suminthecastro.com

Sumi, named after it’s owner, has been in the Castro longer than you have. Well, that is if you haven’t lived there for longer than 22 years. In restaurant years, which are much longer than dog years, that’s an eternity! And, it looks like this place isn’t going anywhere soon.With it’s soft lighting and romantic setting, Sumi is charming and quaint, has a loveable wait staff and unforgettable Asian-inspired food. The perfect place to not only take your sweetie, but mom and dad too.

The Asian influence is no more apparent than in the appetizers. The Panko Coated Warm Goat Cheese with oranges, Belgian endive, toasted hazelnuts, dried cherries and a subtle sherry vinaigrette is a perfect appetizer paired with a nice Chardonnay. The deep fried togarashi squid, on the menu it’s called Calamari and Rock Shrimp, with it’s trio of dipping sauces is fantastic, light, and crunchy, a perfect beginning paired with an exotic Japanese beer, or sake, or a wine from the extensive wine list.

The main courses are cooked to perfection, centered around a protein, and prepared in a French style with fresh California ingredients and an Asian flair. The Oven-Roasted Miso Chicken Breast is full of  flavor and simply delicious. It’s served with wasabi mashed potatoes that are light and creamy with a faint but distinctive horseradish note. The fresh fish of the day was Yellowtail or Hamachi as you would see it on a sushi menu. It’s served along side a spongy wild rice and sautéed spinach with golden raisins and a delicious saffron beurre blanc. There is also a wonderful Oven Roasted Salmon, Seared Sea Scallops, Pork Loin Chop, Lamb, and of course a fantastic Niman Ranch Grilled File Mignon served with garlic mashed potatoes, carrots, gobo, herbs de Provence butter and fried shallots, on the menu as well. You can add a side order of Sautéed Garlic Broccoli, Cayenne-Sweet Potato Fries, Stir-fried Asian Greens or Garlic Mashed Potatoes for just five bucks.

Make sure to leave room for dessert. The Sumi Sundae is a perfect meal-topper; decadent Scharfeen Berger chocolate cake, served with French vanilla ice cream,  home-made chocolate sauce, and brandied cherries. Another wonderful ending is the Yuzu Cheese Cake with a pink grapefruit garnish.

Sumi is a staple in the heart of the Castro. It’s quiet and cute with an endearing staff, a romantic atmosphere, and outstanding food, a perfect little place to impress just about anyone.

Frjtz

Neighborhood: Hayes Valley
581 Hayes St
(between Laguna St & Octavia St)
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 864-7654
www.frjtzfries.com

If all Frjtz served was Belgian style fries, it would still be the best place in the Hayes Valley (maybe even SF), to grab a quick bite, take in some stylish art, enjoy cool music, and relax. Stepping into the Hayes Valley Frjtz (there is also a Ghirardelli Square location) is like stepping into a café in Amsterdam. The atmosphere is voguish and bohemian with a European flair. By way of inspired art, tiled skateboard decks and dazzling paintings decorate the walls, and snug seating–this charming teahouse is the perfect place to steal a moment to appreciate life.
Featuring DJ Frjtz spinning eclectic music every Friday night and during the week a rotating host of DJs, including DJ Pathos and others, Frjtz is also a hot night spot. Also, enjoy lazy Sunday afternoons with down tempo music from 2 pm until DJs run out of records.

Don’t go to Frjtz and not order the fries! Make no mistake; they are the best fries around. Crisp on the outside and pillow-soft inside, they are simply perfect. Add a drizzle of truffle oil and be careful not to bite off a finger during an eating frenzy, they’re THAT good. After enjoying a few nude fries, try them with a dip. Interesting condiments, from curry catsup to pesto mayo to strawberry mustard can change the flavor of them dramatically.

Frjtz also serves well-crafted crepes, both savory and sweet. Some of the best crepes, named after famous artists, are the Caravaggio made with mozzarella, grilled chicken, pesto, and tomatoes, and the Matisse with smoked salmon, sour cream, and chives. Dessert crepes are a must-have, like the Margritte; Nutella and banana, topped with whipped cream or the Horta, filled with butter, brown sugar, bananas, and topped with sour cream. Basquiat was not only the name of one of the world’s most brilliant artists, but also the name of one of the many sandwiches available. With grilled chicken, pesto mayo, red onions, melted Swiss and avocado on focaccia, it’s delicious.

Frjtz features an assortment of wonderful Belgium beers, the finest being the Hooegarden, its floral with a vague hint of vanilla, and a bevy of espresso drinks.

Visiting Frjtz could easily become a daily or nightly routine.

Ararat

Ararat Mediterranean
Neighborhood: The Castro
4072 18th St
San Francisco, CA 94114
(415) 252-9325
www.ararat-tapas.com

In Eastern Turkey bordering Iran, Armenia, and Nachivan, sits Mount Ararat, which may be the largest single-mass mountain in the world and is suspected, based on clues in the book of Genesis, to be where Noah’s ark was last parked. Taking its name from this massive stratovolcano, Ararat Mediterranean Tapas & Bar sits high above 18th street overlooking the beautiful Castro district.

Ararat, the restaurant, offers a mélange of tapas, entrees, and an assortment of perfectly cooked kabobs inspired from locales in and around the Mediterranean. Combining the flavors and cooking techniques of countries like Turkey, Lebanon, Greece, Italy, and Spain, the chefs at Ararat create a uniquely appetizing palette of colors and flavors.

Ararat prides itself on Mezes, or hot and cold tapas. They have the standard Lebanese Tabbouleh, but it doesn’t taste standard. This delicious parsley salad is bustling with flavors of ripe tomato, onion, and fresh mint. The Turkish Cigar Borek, a feta cheese and herb filled-filo pastry is spectacular as is the Piquillos, a diminutive Spanish red pepper filled with cumin-lime blended goat cheese. The best way to enjoy these dishes is by way of the Ararat Sampler which combines all these as well as 5 other delightful tapas on one plate. It’s priced much less than a Mediterranean cruise, but just as adventurous.

Much like the tapas, the entrees are a whirlwind of taste and technique. The Beyti Kebab, lavash rolls filled with ground sirloin and served with garlic yogurt and a light tomato sauce is terrific. The Salmon Provancale, roasted salmon topped with fennel, leeks, and spinach served over sautéed cannelloni beans and a fumet sauce is exceptional. There are a few wonderful Italian dishes on the menu too. The Chicken Parmagiano, and the Linguini Dimare, with ocean-fresh clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops, and salmon in a delicate garlic and white wine butter sauce, are almost as good as the Tortellini Carbonara, homemade beef tortellini with pancetta, green onions, and mushrooms in a light cream sauce topped with parmesan cheese. The menu is rounded out by a wonderful lentil soup, several salads, creative cocktails from the full bar, and an outstanding wine list.

But, if nothing else, don’t miss the best baklava in the city. A bold statement, surely, but couple the Nightingale’s Nest, lavender honey baked baklavas with roasted walnuts, with a Turkish coffee and you’ll understand.

Ararat, likes its namesake, is bold, beautiful, and bordering the mystical with a superb blend of cultures and flavors from the area in the middle of the Earth.

Losing my virginity…

When I wrote about rock ‘n’ roll I went to sooo many concerts. Actually I didn’t just write about music, I had a cable access TV show, think Waynes’s Word with on location band interviews and live show snippets, and I had a friend working at a college radio station, Stanford KZSU 90.1, who’d let me play my interviews and audio of live shows. I was busy, I’d be at a show at least a few times a week.

I was young, lived alone, had no idea how to cook, and always stoned…hence always hungry. You know, one of the best things about being a rock journalist is the access to free food and free beer. The bigger the band the better the food and beer…and the amount of it. But that’s fodder for another blog.

So with all that “eating with the band” stuff….suffice to say…I was into food. But, I wasn’t really prepared to deal with the gay foodie world.

My editor told me my first restaurant would be this Indian restaurant in the Castro called Tallulah, named after famed actress Tallulah Bankhead. I listened to his message on my girlfriend’s cell phone, since I couldn’t afford my own. I was sitting there with her eating lunch right after she paid for me to get my hair cut at some chic salon on Maiden Lane. Shit, who’s going to pay for dinner I thought. So I called him back…

“So, uh…I just go there and eat some food and then write about it, right,” I asked my editor. Who said, “yep…got another call…got to go!” I kinda felt like one of Charlie’s Angels who had been given some impossible task to complete from some disembodied voice over a phone.

Great, what’s my girlfriend going to think when I ask her to pay for my food review meal, I thought. I was an unemployed writer just hoping this food review thing would turn into a paid food writing gig, but I never had a chance to really talk to the new editor just yet.

So we show up at Tallulah and have the times of our lives. The owner, Harveen, was so sweet and just plain wonderful to us. I told her I was from the gay men’s magazine, who’s name I think I’ll keep secret…actually, let’s just call it Secret Magazine for now. She was so warm and inviting and seemed to share our enthusiasm. She told us that she not only created the menu, but designed the whole restaurant herself. It was a beautiful managerie of colors and textures just as warm and inviting as she was. We had a great time…maybe all those hours of watching Iron Chef on the Food Network would pay off, I thought. I remember sitting there at the window after a great meal while finishing up a great dessert overlooking all the hustle and bustle of the Castro, relived when I saw that the entire meal, drinks, desserts and all had been comped…I didn’t make a dime…but I didn’t spend one either and the future mother of my child and I just had what looked to be the beginning of one of the best time of our lives.