House of Chen

Neighborhood: Castro
335 Noe Street
(between 16th St & 17th St)
San Francisco, CA 94114
(415) 861-6868

The very minimalist-feeling, brick-laden House of Chen has been a San Francisco institution for more than thirty years. And those three decades worth of experience shines in all of their well-crafted Chinese dishes. The atmosphere is inviting, the rich brick interior feels of old-world charm and the dark-painted ceiling, speckled with stars, ads a cute touch to this overall charismatic little restaurant.

The soups here are extraordinary, especially the vividly flavored Hot and Sour Soup. House of Chen’s offering of the popular Wonton Soup (or Wor Wonton for those who need added flair) is delicious, but there is something exceptional about the Sizzling Rice Soup with Chicken.

If you don’t float your boat in soup, try some of the delicious appetizers. The warm, cheesy, garlicky Crabmeat in Crispy Pastry Shell is absolutely delicious. An incredible and affordable meal could be as simple as a bowl of soup and these divine starters. The steamed Chinese Raviolis, minced pork and a veggie filling, are terrific as well. For those who want it all, order the assorted appetizer plate to satiate your curiosity as well as your appetite.

Main entrées are largely proportioned and quite affordable. The most special “specialty of the house” is definitely the Crispy Ginger Fish; lightly breaded fillet of cod in an exquisite ginger sauce is lovely over steamed rice. The Kung Boa Calamari is brilliant.

There is a large sampling of seafood on the menu, from Jade Scallops, sautéed scallops with tender greens to the Hunan Prawns, sautéed prawns with water chestnuts, Chinese truffle and a spicy sauce, to the simple but delicious Sweet and Sour Shrimp are all quite pleasing.

House of Chen’s award-winning Mongolian Beef is especially tasty, as well as their Beef with Eggplant. The chicken dishes are fantastic. Try the Tai-Chi Chicken, or if you feel like a nut, give the Cashew Chicken a taste. Their delicious Mu Shu Pork is a celebrated entrée and the Shredded Pork with Green Peppers in Black Bean Sauce can’t be missed.

The noodle dishes, which surprisingly aren’t regarded as specialties of the house, are genuinely remarkable. House of Chen can transform such a routine dish as Chicken Chow Mein into an indisputably delicious platter of hearty noodles mingling with a generous portion of tender chicken, and delightful aromatics all dancing concurrently in a delightful sauce.

Oh and by the way, House of Chen delivers.

Habana

2080 Van Ness Avenue,
San Francisco, CA 94109
415.441.2822
www.habana1948.com

At Habana, enjoying the “Sabor de Cuba”; the flavor and romance of the Caribbean’s largest island, is like spending a brief lay-over in the rough brilliance of old 1940s Havana. There’s an air of faded glory about the splendid bar/restaurante. The warm rustic décor is peppered with glorious Spanish colonial architecture, much of which looks as if it is under restoration, aside from the vivid murals of gorgeous people, and beautiful animals. As if deliberately positioned under the sweltering Caribbean sun, lush plants add virtual shade to the sizzling dining rooms.

The exuberant friendliness of Habana’s personnel is what shines through however, from the wait staff to the bartenders running the swinging bar, of which is rumored to served over a thousand Mojitos a week. All the while adding to the encounter are the instantly recognizable sounds of Cuban music; Spanish guitars fused with intense rumba rhythms, zesty horns, drums, bongos, maracas and sultry voices.

Although the ambience and cordiality are superb, even better are executive chef Joseph Kohn’s dishes. Combining traditional Cuban flavors and Caribbean influences with modern techniques, Kohn’s cuisine is inventive, radiant and utterly delicious. The freshly made empanadas, Puerco; Bar-b-Que pork, Vegetal; roasted squash with goat cheese, and the decadent Pato; shredded duck with papaya-citrus mojo, are spectacular starters.

Other fabulous “Primeros” include the Picadillo; spicy chopped chicken with chayote and the Tierra-Mar; a fiery Cuban calamari; bay scallops, green beans and onions served with a vibrant chipotle remoulade.

The extraordinary main courses, or “Segundos” are seemingly under-priced at below twenty dollars an entree. The exceedingly fresh fish dishes; Salmon Al Mango Y Mostaza; salmon with spiced green beans, Halibut Fabada; pan-seared halibut with white beans and the Tuna Patacon; grilled tuna with maduros, black bean sauce and banana-lime salsa are astounding. However, the Enchilado De Camarones is the king of their seafood dishes; tiger prawns in a Cuban Creole sauce with saffron rice and mussles.

The Pencuga Agria or pan-roasted chicken breast with “angry orange” sauce is delicious as well as the Medallones De Cerdo; pork medallions with a smoked tomato coulis. The popular marinated skirt steak, or Ropa Nueva, is wonderful as well.

The desserts, created by Edgar Valenzuela, Coconut Flan, Roasted Pineapple Crisp, Meyer Lemon or Banana Tart and the decadent Fresca y Chocolate, should almost be enjoyed at the top of the meal, since it would be a crying shame if they were overlooked.

Fresca

Neighborhood: Pacific Heights
2114 Fillmore Street
(between California St & Sacramento St)
San Francisco, CA 94115
(415) 447-2668
www.frescasf.com

Owned and operated by the father and Son team of Julio and Jose Calvo-Perez, Fresca is “More than just Peruvian,” claims their motto. Like Peru, the restaurant is a rich multicultural crossroads where eastern and western techniques and flavors converge. Fresca glows with an overwhelming sense of pride as the Perez duo’s craft and culture is methodically represented in great detail. Not only do the dishes seem to come straight from Peru, the décor creates a wonderful representation of all that is unique to Latin America.

Since there has been a major influx of Neuvo-latin restaurants sprouting up in the city as of late, to keep up with this new impulse, Fresca has not only one, but two locales. The original restaurant being on West Portal, gave rise to the relatively new Pacific Heights spot on Fillmore. This location’s open kitchen gives light to a wonderful sense of camaraderie and passion. It’s great to see a young, friendly, cohesive staff working together to create an atmosphere of charm and open hospitality.

As Peru has a rich multicultural heritage its traditional cuisine is just as multi-layered. Dishes incorporating fish rule the fare. Traditional ceviches are bountiful. Fresca’s Ceviche Mixto, with calamari, scallops, shrimp, clams and rocoto spice is fiery and bold, a perfect contrast to the cool Ceviche de Ahicon Coco, Ahi tuna with ginger and jalapenos bathed in sweet coconut water.

Tiraditos, or Peruvian sashimi is another outstanding treat found on the menu. The spicy Tuna Tiradito, fresh tuna in a lively scallion vinaigrette is delicious. Unsurprisingly, given Peru’s rich mix of cultures there are other Eastern-inflected dishes including the delicious Arroz Chaufa or fried rice and the delectable Tequenos, or crab and cream cheese stuffed wontons served with a spicy aji amarillo dipping sauce.

The desserts are spectacular. The ripe Mango Cheese Cake is rich and creamy and set off by this wonderful mango sauce. Arros con Leche, warm rice pudding with coconut cream and canella, sprinkled with warm toasted coconut shavings is fabulous.

A great assortment of Latin beers and wine fill the menu, all compliment the remarkable side dishes extraordinarily. Take a seat at the bar overlooking that engaging fast-paced kitchen, grab a dark beer, order up some Bolitas de Yuca Frita, mouth-watering fried yucca rolls filled with queso fresco drizzled with a wonderful aji huacatay mayo sauce and watch this magnificent father and son pair do what they do best…entertain.

Cote Sud

Neighborhood: Castro
4238 18th St
(between Collingwood St & Diamond St)
San Francisco, CA 94114
(415) 255-6565

www.cotesudsf.com

Is fois gras really one of the culinary world’s greatest treasures? I can understand burying the stuff…but eating it? On purpose, even? So French cuisine is always mentioned in foodie circles as the ultimate and maybe Cote Sud is a perfect representation of the ultimate south of France faire. Or maybe I just don’t dig French food.

So the chef knew I was coming to write about the place in Gloss and upon my arrival had champagne at the ready. Wonderful…how can this turn bad, I thought to myself. The maitere’d asked in the thickest of French accents if we had any allergies or preferences…nah, I said…just surprise us. and surprise us they did.

Course one was, of course, snails. No matter how much I tried to convince myself that I was eating a really garlicky mushroom, I couldn’t choke down the heavenly-scented mollusk. I could still make-out it’s li’l shriveled antennae and all. if I was closer to the balcony I woulda spit it out on the sidewalk. Course two was scallops in a wonderfully light and buttery broth, with just a hint of sand. That’s right…sand. Bummer. Course three was the fois gras. What looked like a slab jelly-covered dog food is supposed to be fab fare? I took a bite of my cracker, smeared the fois gras on it, mashed up a li’l of the slab of fois gras moved it around the plate and feeling all 8-year-old again, patiently waited for the waiter’s reprimand. “What…uh, you, uh…no, uh…like-a-da fois gras,” he asked. I’m sure It’s wonderful fois gras, but I just don’t care for it, sowwy.

Did I mention how wonderful the French wines were? Oh and the bread. The fresh-baked bread was divine. It was too bad that we had to hollow it out and fill it with the veal sausages that were served next. Ugh, I just can’t bring myself to eat veal. I know, I know, wasting food is terrible and this all could have been avoided had I told the waiter that I didn’t really care for meat dishes…but hindsight is always 20/20.

Finally dessert came. I sighed with relief as I enjoyed the light sorbet which faintly tasted like a slightly melted lemon aide slushy toped with a sprig of mint. Wow, that wasn’t too bad, I made it through with only a few dirty looks from the waiter and a few from the other diners around us who were really annoyed by our preferential treatment. As I was in line for the bathroom…the chef said… “Just-a wait…you’z are going to love the main-a-course!” GULP…please don’t let it be frog legs…please don’t let it be frog legs..please don’t let…no, it wasn’t…it was LAMB! An excited dinner next to me leaned over and asked, “Is that the lamb…it looks delicious.” I wanted to just hand the dish over. I mean, why should lamb go to waste, ya know. Instead that lamb burned my outer thigh as it sat wrapped in a napkin, stuffed into my pocket, as I waited in the bathroom line again…to flush it down the toilet.

Aside from sandy scallops, I’m sure Cote Sud is wonderful, if you like meat dishes covered in butter and cream. But then again, you’d think French desserts are divine, right? Uh…no. The vanilla custard, although it contained no meat, was just so-so. Bummer…hey, did I mention the wine?

The Grill at the Metro

Neighborhood: The Castro
3600 16th Street @ Market and Noe
San Francisco, CA 94114
415.703.9751
metrocitybar.com

With the new, brilliantly-inspired executive chef Fletcher Starkey at the helm, the Grill at the Metro, the newest incarnation of the restaurant in the Castro’s most loved hangout, can proudly boast that they serve some of the best down home cooking’ around. Starkey’s eclectic menu works perfectly well next to a dirty martini as it does a cold beer.

Starters like soup or a salad are a good beginning, so give the delicious Seafood Chowder a try, fresh fish and clams with potatoes, celery, white wine, and cream topped with bacon. Or try the delicious Asian Chicken Noodle Salad. Even better are the appetizers like the spicy Buffalo Style Hot Wings served with a Stilton blue cheese dipping sauce or the delectable Chili Rellano, crisp fried poblano chilies stuffed with Vermont white cheddar and served with a salsa verde. But why settle for just an appetizer when you can pair it with a wonderful sandwich like the California Prawn Club with grilled prawns, Applewood bacon, and sliced avocado on an onion poppy seed roll or a juicy Burger or even a perfectly grilled Chicken Sandwich?

If you’re in the mood for something a bit more substantial or need to find a nice date locale that’s as close as you can get to a bar, the Grill can’t be beat since it’s menu includes several spectacular entrees. The carnivore in you will love the Steak Frites, a perfectly grilled 12oz. New York steak served with Kennebeque potato fries, a salad, and a wonderful red wine demi glace. Oh, and you can catch the best fish and chips in the Castro here too. But, it’s the Capellini Pasta Plate with ripe tomatoes, garlic, basil, and white wine that comes in as one of the best dishes on the menu.

Where Starkey really shines, however, is when he takes control of the menu and adds his weekly specials. This week Starkey treated customers to Grilled Wild Steelhead Salmon and Southern Fried Chicken served with mashed potatoes, roasted carrots, a biscuit and gravy. Now, you can tell a LOT about a cook by their fried chicken, right? Well Starkey serves up such perfectly-fried foul that it would definitely make the colonel weep.

There is an assortment of decadent desserts to round out the menu that will add a perfect little ending to a fabulous meal. This new restaurant is exactly what the Metro needed, a no-fuss familiar menu that will simply blow you away.

Cortez

Neighborhoods: Nob Hill, Civic Center/Tenderloin

550 Geary St
(between Jones St & Shannon St)
San Francisco, CA 94102

(415) 292-6360
www.cortezrestaurant.com

Determined to conquer the new world, Hernando Cortez, an adventurous cavalier, landed in Mexico in 1519, where his ships, horses, and artillery filled its natives with such wonder and terror that they considered him a divine being. Is it any wonder that such an adventurous restaurateur as Pascal Rigo, the force behind his own expanding empire (Bay Bread, Boulange de Polk, Le Petit Robert and Chez Nous) would settle for no less a strong namesake as Cortez for his pioneering new Mediterranean restaurant? In Union Square, Cortez, not only a beautiful and romantic restaurant, but swanky bar as well, nestled in the rich confines of the beautiful Hotel Adagio, is a relatively undiscovered new territory open only a mere six months.

The Husband and wife duo of Quinn and Karen Hatfield preside over the kitchen. Their Mediterranean “small plates”, to be shared at the table, are not only aesthetically gorgeous, and full of revolutionary flavors, they unify the dining revelry.

Cortez’s libations will kick a dining expedition off with gusto. The Glow Cocktail, Op vodka, Cointreau, lemon juice, and mandarin liquor, actually gets bolder with each sip. The devilish Diablo, Silver tequilia, crème de casis, fresh lime and ginger ale, is a wicked little spirit.

The plan to conquering Cortez’s vast menu is to divide up the booty among your army and plunder at least three dishes per person. Tackle something light first, like the Frisee salad with smoked trout, apple, avocado, and fingerling potatoes. Then attack something heartier like the decadent Butternut squash ravioli with Banyuls wine vinegar and sage emulsion. The Caramelized scallops, crispy shallots and artichokes with vanilla-saffron sauce is scrumptious. Charge on to the Roasted loin of beef with creamy braised swiss chard and bone marrow splinters in a red wine shallot reduction. The Slow baked Atlantic salmon, with Dijon infused sweet potato and citrus balsamic vinaigrette is a treasure-trove of textures and deeply intense flavors.

Marauding deeper into the menu will reveal a rich wealth of desserts as treasured as diamonds, each paired with it’s own rabble-rousing libation. “Cortez” a lemon meringue tart with fresh citrus mélange and ginger ice cream and it’s incendiary shot of Canavella Limoncella is scorching. While the Chocolate peanut butter truffle cake, with caramel ice cream and peanut praline matched with a shot of Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum is a victorious ending to an adventuresome meal.

Alma

1101 Valencia St.
San Francisco, CA 94110
415-401-8959

Far too classy to be considered trendy, Alma, Spanish for soul, found en el corazon de la Mission is Neuvo-Latino cuisine; mingling esthetics, ingredients and techniques from Puerto Rico, Cuba, Mexico and the southernmost tip of Argentina, at its finest. Owned by the young and talented chef Johnny Alamilla, “The Bay Area’s indisputable ambassador of Nuevo Latino,” a title bestowed upon him by the James Beard Foundation, and co-owner Catherine Olsen, Alma melds the traditions of the conventional with a fashionable almost cavalier sensibility.

The ambiance speaks volumes of chef Alamilla’s style and personal touch, as this avid snowboarder and self-proclaimed “maintenance guy” for the restaurant was instrumental in designing the interior. The restaurant has a feeling of stepping into a warmhearted Latin dining room. Unbelievably, the food actually outshines the handsome décor and modest bar.

There are no less than four ceviches, the most refreshing way to start a meal, on the menu. Try them individually or grab the Un Poco de Todo, a little taste of each; striped bass with green chilies and red onion in a champagne-grapefruit marinate, scallops with Fresno chilies, cucumber and celery-lime agua fresca, tuna with jicama, green mango and Serrano chilies and the spicy prawns with carrot, ginger rocoto chilies and tomato water are all exceptional.

Appetizers like the Sugar Pie Pumpkin Soup with an orange-ancho chile reduction and the Butternut Squash Empanadas are marvelous ways to begin a meal. The chef’s special side dishes are wonderful accompaniments to the entrees. The Corn Arepas, with caramelized red onions and goat cheese, are magical. And the Quinoa and Purple Potato Gratin with poblano cream and queso casero is excellent parked next to one of Alma’s dazzling entrees.

The pan-seared Blue Nose Sea Bass over giant Peruvian beans, roasted chilies, pearl onions and Meyer lemon sauce simply can’t be beat. The Churrasco-style Pork Chop with a garlic-scallion potato mash is hearty and wholesome. And the Grilled Hanger Steak, with Yucatan-style roasted tomato salsa and smoked bacon sauce is a truly stunning taste. “They’re all good,” admits Alamilla about his entrees, “they’re like my children, how can I suggest one over the other.” Another remarkable entrée is the chef’s selection of season fresh vegetables, a perfect match for the vegetarian.

Regional Latin wines can be matched to soulfully accompany any dish. And lush post-dinner aperitifs seamlessly complement Alma’s versions of the most decadent of Latin desserts, if you dare.

Sumi

Neighborhood: The Castro
4243 18th Street
San Francisco, CA 94114
(415) 626-7864
www.suminthecastro.com

Sumi, named after it’s owner, has been in the Castro longer than you have. Well, that is if you haven’t lived there for longer than 22 years. In restaurant years, which are much longer than dog years, that’s an eternity! And, it looks like this place isn’t going anywhere soon.With it’s soft lighting and romantic setting, Sumi is charming and quaint, has a loveable wait staff and unforgettable Asian-inspired food. The perfect place to not only take your sweetie, but mom and dad too.

The Asian influence is no more apparent than in the appetizers. The Panko Coated Warm Goat Cheese with oranges, Belgian endive, toasted hazelnuts, dried cherries and a subtle sherry vinaigrette is a perfect appetizer paired with a nice Chardonnay. The deep fried togarashi squid, on the menu it’s called Calamari and Rock Shrimp, with it’s trio of dipping sauces is fantastic, light, and crunchy, a perfect beginning paired with an exotic Japanese beer, or sake, or a wine from the extensive wine list.

The main courses are cooked to perfection, centered around a protein, and prepared in a French style with fresh California ingredients and an Asian flair. The Oven-Roasted Miso Chicken Breast is full of  flavor and simply delicious. It’s served with wasabi mashed potatoes that are light and creamy with a faint but distinctive horseradish note. The fresh fish of the day was Yellowtail or Hamachi as you would see it on a sushi menu. It’s served along side a spongy wild rice and sautéed spinach with golden raisins and a delicious saffron beurre blanc. There is also a wonderful Oven Roasted Salmon, Seared Sea Scallops, Pork Loin Chop, Lamb, and of course a fantastic Niman Ranch Grilled File Mignon served with garlic mashed potatoes, carrots, gobo, herbs de Provence butter and fried shallots, on the menu as well. You can add a side order of Sautéed Garlic Broccoli, Cayenne-Sweet Potato Fries, Stir-fried Asian Greens or Garlic Mashed Potatoes for just five bucks.

Make sure to leave room for dessert. The Sumi Sundae is a perfect meal-topper; decadent Scharfeen Berger chocolate cake, served with French vanilla ice cream,  home-made chocolate sauce, and brandied cherries. Another wonderful ending is the Yuzu Cheese Cake with a pink grapefruit garnish.

Sumi is a staple in the heart of the Castro. It’s quiet and cute with an endearing staff, a romantic atmosphere, and outstanding food, a perfect little place to impress just about anyone.

Frjtz

Neighborhood: Hayes Valley
581 Hayes St
(between Laguna St & Octavia St)
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 864-7654
www.frjtzfries.com

If all Frjtz served was Belgian style fries, it would still be the best place in the Hayes Valley (maybe even SF), to grab a quick bite, take in some stylish art, enjoy cool music, and relax. Stepping into the Hayes Valley Frjtz (there is also a Ghirardelli Square location) is like stepping into a café in Amsterdam. The atmosphere is voguish and bohemian with a European flair. By way of inspired art, tiled skateboard decks and dazzling paintings decorate the walls, and snug seating–this charming teahouse is the perfect place to steal a moment to appreciate life.
Featuring DJ Frjtz spinning eclectic music every Friday night and during the week a rotating host of DJs, including DJ Pathos and others, Frjtz is also a hot night spot. Also, enjoy lazy Sunday afternoons with down tempo music from 2 pm until DJs run out of records.

Don’t go to Frjtz and not order the fries! Make no mistake; they are the best fries around. Crisp on the outside and pillow-soft inside, they are simply perfect. Add a drizzle of truffle oil and be careful not to bite off a finger during an eating frenzy, they’re THAT good. After enjoying a few nude fries, try them with a dip. Interesting condiments, from curry catsup to pesto mayo to strawberry mustard can change the flavor of them dramatically.

Frjtz also serves well-crafted crepes, both savory and sweet. Some of the best crepes, named after famous artists, are the Caravaggio made with mozzarella, grilled chicken, pesto, and tomatoes, and the Matisse with smoked salmon, sour cream, and chives. Dessert crepes are a must-have, like the Margritte; Nutella and banana, topped with whipped cream or the Horta, filled with butter, brown sugar, bananas, and topped with sour cream. Basquiat was not only the name of one of the world’s most brilliant artists, but also the name of one of the many sandwiches available. With grilled chicken, pesto mayo, red onions, melted Swiss and avocado on focaccia, it’s delicious.

Frjtz features an assortment of wonderful Belgium beers, the finest being the Hooegarden, its floral with a vague hint of vanilla, and a bevy of espresso drinks.

Visiting Frjtz could easily become a daily or nightly routine.

Barracuda

Neighborhood: The Castro
251 Market Street
San Francisco, CA 94101
(415) 558-8567
www.barracudasushi.com

Barracuda is not a Japanese restaurant. It’s much more. One of the newest hot spots in the Castro is Barracuda, which not only serves traditional Japanese cuisine but culturally inspired dishes from all across the globe. With two beautiful bars, one for sipping hip drinks and one for dining and watching talented sushi chefs create inspired dishes, Barracuda’s warm and trendy atmosphere is very appealing.

Barracuda blurs borderlines by serving worldly dishes with a twist, like Duck a La Orange brined in soy and oranges with fennel and Spanish chorizo, baby bok choy, and an orange miso reduction. The Pan Seared Ribeye and the Pomegranate Glazed Stuffed Quail are both wonderful. At your average sushi joint, you won’t find Foi Gras served on toast with grilled pineapple, unagi, mango chutney, and coffee miso or Ceviche, a blend of fresh yellowtail, salmon, tuna, and yuzu, with a lemon wasabi sauce on crisp greens.

What Barracuda does best is create interesting and exotic sushi rolls that are plated exquisitely. Barracuda on Market is a unique rice paper roll with dried pineapple, red tuna, salmon, kaiware, avocado, and wasabi tobiko served with a blueberry and mango sauce. Another brilliant creation is the Power of Love roll; salmon roe and chopped fresh mango wrapped in tofu then quickly fried and served over black miso sauce. The Just Met roll is steamed cabbage surrounding unagi, hamachi, enoki, and leeks with an unagi cilantro sauce.

The wine menu is impressive, featuring wines from South Africa, Argentina, Chile and of course, California, there isn’t a bad choice on the list. And, the sake selection is excellent.

The exotic theme is carried through to the dessert menu as well. The Sake Chocolate Truffles, rolled in pistachios and served atop green tea ice cream is decadent and rich. Anmitsu is kanten jello, fruits, sweet azuki beans and green tea ice cream and definitely worth a try, much like everything else this stellar new edition to the Castro has to offer.